Worlds are colliding in China. Wealth and commercialism are defying the communist tradition in such a blatant way that at times we felt like we were in Hong Kong or Singapore. The GDP per capita is just over 10% of that in the U.S.; yet the restaurants were often more expensive than in Chicago. That said, the food was one of the highlights of this trip. Every single restaurant was outstanding and memorable. At TRB Bites, we had the best service we've ever had in a restaurant--and with how much we love to eat out, this is a serious statement. So it was expensive, but worth it.
Then there's the air quality. For anyone who is still questioning climate change in our time and who thinks that a resurgence of manufacturing and gutting of environmental regulations is the future, I urge you to visit Beijing, where on an average day the air is suffocating and sour. That said, they have a super efficient, easy-to-use metro system that costs about 50 cents per ride and takes you almost anywhere you need to go. This should help reduce pollution over time. They've also made all indoor spaces non-smoking, which was a pleasant surprise for us. At least this improves the indoor air quality.
China is well on its way to becoming a world power, at least economically. At the same time, it seems impossible to do that while the people remain insulated from the world (i.e. media and internet censorship). In addition, the language barrier is real, even in hotels. We managed just fine, but it was surprising.
During our week in Beijing, we managed to see all of the major sites, and they are all worthwhile. For 900 RMB, we were able to get a private taxi to the Great Wall at Mutianyu in the morning (farther away and less crowded) and the Summer Palace on the way back. The Temple of Heaven was one of my favorites because of its peaceful and calming setting. Lastly, Lama Temple was definitely worth visiting, not just for the attraction itself, but also because it puts you in the neighborhood to visit King's Joy restaurant, Arrow Factory Brewing, and Wudaoying Hutong (which is a cool street lined with restaurants and shops). Overall, we had a great time in the PRC.
An incredible sale on Air Canada drew us to this destination. As such, we were able to do bookends in Vancouver to break up a miserably long flight. If the entertainment system had been functional on the Beijing leg of the flight, I think the 10 hours and 40 minutes would have been tolerable. Would I fly Air Canada again? Probably not, especially after this trip. They changed our seats without notifying us, the food was pretty bad, and on the inbound flight, we were woken up sporadically throughout the flight with lengthy announcements, lights, and random meals (not the protocol for international flights). I'd try a different carrier in the future, but I would always break up the flight with a west coast stop.
Returning to Hong Kong five years later felt like no time at all had passed. There we were, looking at the skyline lights from the Lobby Lounge at the InterContinental, while the jazz band played in the periphery, just as before. Time stood still, and it was comforting. I like Hong Kong. My first impression years ago was that it was a city in the midst of a jungle. That still holds true. It's the same Hong Kong I remembered, albeit with more malls and pollution. It has some of the nicest hotels in the world, restaurants with some of the best views in the world, and the most depth and layers I've ever seen in a city--creating a dizzying labyrinth that I have yet to master. Everyone should see Hong Kong.
We saved up miles and used award tickets in Business Class on Cathay Pacific. I'm not sure I could do it any other way. Once you arrive, take the Airport Express downtown (you can buy tickets online in advance), and from there, either a taxi or the shuttle bus. Taxis are pretty cheap and reliable. Hong Kong is an excellent gateway to Asia. We used it as our entry point to explore Southeast Asia with a series of one-way flights. We did this on both of our last two visits (see my other pages for Malaysia, Thailand, Japan, Singapore, Vietnam, and Cambodia).